Nice Write Up in Crain's New York
Gift Certificates for Custom Natural Perfume Consultations
Give the gift of a private perfume consultation! You'll be giving a unique and very personal experience. Your gifted one will learn how to blend a selection of scents into their own personal perfume. In a step by step process they'll be able to choose from over one hundred essential oils, absolutes and concretes, some rare and exotic, to create a fragrance that is uniquely theirs. This fun, sometimes surprising and sometimes revealing journey into scent memories and preferences will result in a perfume that is theirs alone, one that works with their individual body chemistry and reflects their personality and interests.
I've teamed with clients to create fragrances for different mood, occasions and seasons, fragrances that evoke memories or the unforgettable qualities of a particular location or experience. A perfect gift for the bride to be. This is a one-on-one consultation in Julianne's studio.
$190 for an hour and a half consultation, includes 1/4 ounce vial of perfume. Call (718)788-6480 or email info@herbalalchemy.net to make an appointment or purchase a gift certificate.
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Fragrance Parties and Private Classes
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| A private class in my home studio. |
I can accommodate five or possibly six students in my home studio in Park Slope. There is a two hour minimum booking at $350, $125 per hour thereafter. Parties offsite are $500 minimum for two hours plus $25 per head. Call (718)788-6480 or email info@herbalalchemy.net for more information or to book a party or class.
Gift Certificates for Custom Perfume Consultations
Give the gift of a private perfume consultation! You'll be giving a unique and very personal experience. Your gifted one will learn how to blend a selection of scents into their own personal perfume. In a step by step process they'll be able to choose from over one hundred essential oils, absolutes and concretes, some rare and exotic, to create a fragrance that is uniquely theirs. This fun, sometimes surprising and sometimes revealing journey into scent memories and preferences will result in a perfume that is theirs alone, one that works with their individual body chemistry and reflects their personality and interests.
I've teamed with clients to create fragrances for different moods and occasions, fragrances that evoke memories or the unforgettable qualities of a particular location or experience. A perfect idea for the bride to be. This is a one-on-one consultation in Julianne’s studio.
$175.00 for an hour and a half consultation, includes 1/4 ounce vial of perfume. Call (718)788-6480 or email at info@herbalalchemy.net to make arrangements.
Home Studio Classes
It's official. I've begun teaching small groups in my cozy and intimate home studio. I've been wanting to teach here for many years and the surprise closing of 3rd Ward last month deemed it time to begin. I taught a beginner's class a few weeks ago but this past Saturday I taught my Fougere Workshop, the one I've been talking about for months now.It's no secret that I've been fascinated by fougere's and the delightful and enticing molecule, coumarin, for some time now. I'm a natural born researcher so when I set out to make my first creation (which turned out to be Sol de la Foret) I had to do my homework first and read up on it. I began to send for samples of some of the original fougere's, notably Fougere Royale by Houbigant and Jicky by Guerlain, and also from some of the natural perfume world's best perfumers who've made a perfume in this classification. As I compiled information, both factually and sensorily, I realized that I had the makings of a great workshop devoted specifically to this genre.
After taking in the samples and getting an idea of the generalities of a fougere and the wide breadth of different varieties we explored the materials in a little more depth. Tonka bean, hay absolute, sweet clover absolute, oak moss, cedar moss, ho wood and cassia as well as a selection of lavender essential oils, absolutes and concretes were introduced. At this point the students set out to make their own quintessential fougere. After a little gentle critiquing of their creations we went further and discussed the different classifications more in depth (amber, floral, fresh, leather, oriental and precious wood fougere's). A few new materials were introduced such as davana, buddahwood, ambrette, choya nak, aglaia and magnolia and then the students set out to create their second perfume. |
| Tester strips of some of the perfumes we sampled |
The class was such a success and the students so enthusiastic that I broached the subject of a salon series meeting semi-regularly to break down the fragrance classifications. The group was so enamored of the choya nak (a destructive distillation of roasted seashells) that the conversation kept turning to leather notes. They were excited about the notion of an exploration in leather perfumes so I can see I have my work cut out for me with my next research project. My head is already spinning with images of 16th Century Parisian glove makers using gorgeous florals to cover up the smell of animal skin. Smokey cade, birch, myrtle, styrax... Expect a leather perfume to follow!
If you're interested in being part of the Salon please email me at info@herbalalchemy.net. Space is limited.
Lovely Review in Fragrantica
Fougere Workshop
The fragrance family known as the fougere is a fantasy concept meant to capture the scent of the natural habitat of ferns - the forest floor. The principal notes are oakmoss, tonka bean and lavender. In this workshop we’ll be sampling Fougere Royale and Jicky, the instigators of this fragrance family, as well as a careful selection of the botanical world’s best perfumers. Each student will create two perfumes using a collection of oils I’ve assembled for the the occasion including tonka bean, sweet clover, hay and a selection of lavender essential oils, absolutes and concretes. This will also be an opportunity to work with a few rare and precious oils such as orris root, ambrette, choya nak, ho wood, buddahwood and wild sweet orange.
Fougere Workshop
Saturday, November 16th
1:00 to 4:00
$150 includes all materials
Park Slope, Brooklyn
Call (718)788-6480 or send an email to info@herbalalchemy.net for more information or register here.
Fougere
The first fougere was Fougere Royale by Houbigant, created in 1882, and spurred a whole new perfume category. While it's probable that these fragrant chords were popular before the release of Fougere Royale, the fragrance captured a moment in time and has forever become linked with it's origination. Houbigant was the first house to develop a scent chemical meant to replicate the scent of fresh mown hay, otherwise known as coumarin. Coumarin is present in tonka beans, hay, sweet clover, sweet woodruff, sweetgrass, flouve and deertounge and in lesser degrees lavender, cassia, cherries, strawberries and apricots. It is an overall pleasant odor reminiscent of sweet grass with vanilla overtones.
Jicky by Guerlain was created soon after in 1889 and it has notes of lavender, rosemary, bergamot, opoponax, precious woods, vanilla, and tonka bean.
Fougere captured the imagination of perfumers who used tonka, oakmoss and lavender as a base to create new versions of the concept. Often the base is supplemented by patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood and myrrh. Often there is a rosy heart supported by geranium and clary sage, jasmine and orange blossom with top notes of lavender, rosewood, citrus, rosemary and bergamot. There are sub-categories of floral, fresh, oriental, amber, leather and precious wood fougeres. I'm hosting a fougere workshop in my home atelier on Saturday, July 27th. We'll be sampling Fougere Royale, Jicky and a careful selection of fragrances by some of the botanical perfume world's best perfumers including Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, Charna Ethier, Ayala Moriel and others. Each participant will get to create two perfumes using an assortment of oils I've collected just for the occasion. Tonka bean, sweet clover and hay absolute will be on hand along with several lavender absolutes and essential oils. This will be an opportunity to experiment with a few rare and precious oils like orris, ambrette, choya nak, ho wood, buddahwood and wild sweet orange.
Fougere Workshop
Saturday, July 27th
1:30 to 4:30
$130 includes all materials
Park Slope, Brooklyn
Call (718)788-6480 or send an email to info@herbalalchemy.net for more information or to register.
Natural Perfume Blending with Mandy Aftel
Mandy collects antique oils as well and displays their original bottles in the window with the gorgeous California light streaming through. It was a visual feast as well as olfactory.
Questions answered, curiosity piqued, inspiration fired up I return to my studio to get to work on new creations. I'm so grateful for the opportunity and for another chance to get to know Mandy a little better. I'm a fan!Mandy also sells a collection of oils. Let her do the work for you tracking down the best possible materials. Visit her website at aftelier.com.
A Nice Review of my Perfume Blending Class
I was most pleased to read that "Everyone in the class was really engaged and took notes and participated in the class in a way that was, frankly, really fun to be a part of", and that she though of me as "a lively, informative presence during the class, which she starts off with a history of perfume that manages to be both comprehensive and easy-to-follow for the novice.". What I hope most about my classes is that they're informative and fun. It's nice to receive some validation that I'm getting it right.
Natural Perfume Blending Workshop, Part Two
This coming Saturday I'll be teaching part two of my perfumery course. The class is for students who have taken the first class in Natural
Perfume Blending but want to further their blending skills. The original
kit of 50 or so oils will be added to with some rare and precious oils
such as ambrette, hay absolute, tuberose, yuzu and pink pepper. The
concepts of locking and burying will be explored and there will be
specific assignments to deepen your understanding of blending and
perfume creation, as well as sharpen your sense of smell.
Saturday, November 10th
1:30 to 4:30
3rd Ward
195 Morgan Ave.
Brooklyn, NY
Park Perfumes Review
The online gardening magazine Soiled and Seeded, dedicated to cultivating a garden culture, has been so kind as to review my trio of Park Perfumes. This is some of my earliest work and includes some synthetic oils that I couldn't get in nature. I'm in the process of revising those perfumes using only natural oils and utilizing some of the skills and experience I've accumulated over the past ten years. The first to be finished is The Ambergill which formerly used a synthetic amber note.
After extensively researching amber I discovered that there is no real amber oil extracted from a plant. There is a pine tree in India that exudes a sap that a lot of it starts from, but then many processes occur and a proprietary blend of oils and macerations are added to create amber in many forms. Some are crystalized in beezwax so a mere touch melts on the fingertips. These blends are closely guarded secret formulas.
I've had a bottle of amber oil for many years that I bought from the Persian perfume vendors on Atlantic Avenue in Brooklyn. I knew that it was probably adulterated with synthetic materials but I liked that warm velvety chord and couldn't be deprived. This year I made my own proprietary blend with absolutes and essential oils. I'm happy to have come up with a blend I can use in my perfumes without resorting to it's synthetic counterpart. From that I've created a scented Amber Oil.
I've had a bottle of amber oil for many years that I bought from the Persian perfume vendors on Atlantic Avenue in Brooklyn. I knew that it was probably adulterated with synthetic materials but I liked that warm velvety chord and couldn't be deprived. This year I made my own proprietary blend with absolutes and essential oils. I'm happy to have come up with a blend I can use in my perfumes without resorting to it's synthetic counterpart. From that I've created a scented Amber Oil.
Now that I had an amber chord to work with I went ahead and recreated The Ambergill, a perfume inspired by the beautiful Ambergill ravine and falls in the Prospect Park in Brooklyn, NY. A gill is a narrow stream-filled glen, which feeds a grotto known as the Amergill Pool, whose banks are populated by green herons, columbine, wild roses & blackberries. Amber, oakmoss & neroli are the peak notes of this warm perfume.
Summer Workshops Announced
Saturday, June 9, 1:30 to 4:30
Sunday, July 22, 1:30 to 4:30
Saturday, August 11, 1:30 to 4:30
The sense of smell is so neglected, take an opportunity to develop yours and broaden your scent horizons!
More Workshops Announced
Two new Natural Perfume Blending Workshops have been scheduled for this spring. There is still room available for the May 5th class at 3rd Ward. I'm so pleased to be offering a workshop at my new favorite boutique, By Brooklyn, in Carroll Gardens on June 2nd. The classes have been a lot of fun and I'm thoroughly enjoying seeing everyone's reactions to discovering oils they've never experienced before, and it's great to see the different fragrances students come up with from the same collection.
Teaching Natural Perfume
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| A selection of natural oils |
For most of the students it was the first time they had a chance to smell some of the more exotic and rare oils that a natural perfumer uses. Ambery labdanum and earthy oak moss were favorite bottom notes for the group. They swooned over sultry jasmine sambac and orange flower concrete, rich and complex honey and spicy aromatic clove absolute. Head notes of pink grapefruit, fir needle and black pepper peaked their interest for top notes.
The January and February classes at 3rd Ward have filled up already but there is a link to get on a wait list for future classes. I'll also be teaching at Observatory Room sometime this spring. I've discovered that I love teaching!
Natural Perfume Blending Workshops
As a concerned consumer, you are choosing organic food, seeking out sustainable products and opting for eco-friendly packaging. But what about the fragrance you wear? That signature scent is likely composed of synthetic materials (as most commercial fragrances are), mass-produced, packaged and shipped around the world in the millions of units. Natural perfumery is a much different process that uses only essential oils and precious absolutes that are extracted from plants. Like fine wine, subtle differences can be found from the same plant from year to year depending on soil conditions and climate meaning that it is not an exact science but a creative alchemical process.
In this sensory workshop we will examine the artisanal art of natural perfumery. Students will gain a basic understanding of the sense of smell, the history of perfume, the advent of synthetic ingredients and the return to naturals. Perfume ingredients and formulation will be explored and each participant will leave with two bottles of their own bespoke perfume.
No prior knowledge of perfume making is required. Students should bring a notebook to class, all other materials will be provided.
3rd Ward
195 Morgan Avenue
Brooklyn, NY
Sunday, December 11th
2:30 - 5:300pm
and in 2012...
3rd Ward
195 Morgan Avenue
Brooklyn, NY
Thursday, January 19th
7:00 - 10:00pm
and
Saturday, February 11th
1:30 - 4:30pm
Berkeley in Bloom
I'm just back in town from a wonderful weekend in Berkeley, CA where I attended a natural perfume workshop with the extremely talented Mandy Aftel. The whole fragrance experience began for me on the first day of my trip spent wandering the streets of North Berkeley. Everywhere I turned I was astonished by fragrant blooms. Thick brackets of jasmine hung thickly all over the neighborhood, and roses the size of cabbages wafted their aromas on the breeze.Berkeley Rose Garden
I discovered the Berkeley Rose Garden, perched high on a hill with an incredible view of the Bay and Golden Gate Bridge. It was a literal amphitheater of roses. I was very fortunate to visit the area during peak rose season. Every rose smell differently and it was a wonderful way to prepare my nose for my upcoming workshop in perfumery. 
